ENVIRON’S ADVICE ON THE USE OF AHAs in SKIN CARE
The media spotlight is once again focused on anti-ageing skincare ingredients after Dr Sam Epstein, chairman of the Cancer Prevention Coalition, warned of the dangers of AHAs, which can strip the skin of its protective layer, exposing it to sun damage and toxins. This cautionary message is one that Environ, whose skincare range includes AHA products, is quick to support.
Dr Des Fernandes, plastic surgeon and founder of Environ Skin Care, said, “My concerns have always been the same as Dr Epstein’s. At Environ we have always stressed that alpha hydroxy acids should be used with caution - and always in combination with vitamin A.”
The Environ skincare range focuses on protection and renewal of the skin by daily application of vitamin-based products. However, in developing a complete skincare system, Dr Fernandes recognised the benefits of a combined approach to enable more effective treatment of sun-damaged or problem skin. Pre-treatment with AHA toners and creams has also been found to help accustom those with sensitive skin to using vitamin A. Once the skin improves, the use of AHAs is generally discontinued.
He emphasises that chronic use of alpha hydroxy acids without the support of vitamin A and sensible sun protection is not advisable because AHAs gradually thin the skin and make it more vulnerable to environmental damage. Vitamin A can rebalance this refining effect by stimulating natural renewal and thickening the growing layers of the skin.
“As a therapist you may come across fragile skin in people who have used alpha hydroxy acids relentlessly - this is common in America. These people may have had wonderful skin which has been ruined. Exfoliation should not be done day after day because the skin will start to dehydrate and lose condition. The horny layer and the stratum granulosum have been affected so that fragile skin is smooth, taut and uncomfortable looking, whereas healthy skin has got a depth to it.”
“However, AHAs are useful in certain functions and should not be disregarded,” says Dr Fernandes. “AHAs are safe if they are not too strong, or too acidic. If clients are using AHA products then remind them always to use sun-protection during the daytime because AHA treated skin is photo-sensitive.”
He explains that AHA products can be very useful to maintain the skin’s natural acidity and preventing bacterial build-up: “If there is a tendency to spots then an AHA product will promote the acid mantle, smooth the surface of the skin and reduce the chances of follicular obstruction that causes acne. People with oily skins should use an AHA toner regularly.”
“Use an AHA cream if your skin is rough from sun-damage. A thickened horny layer will benefit from an AHA-based toner to facilitate penetration of the active ingredients that follow, However, don’t use it both night and day, and certainly do not use it for prolonged periods without a break.
“It is essential to remember that not everyone needs to use an AHA toner. Nor should people use high doses of alpha hydroxy acids year in, year out. I think that we should consider these ingredients more as something you use in a treatment course periodically.”
Dr Fernandes believes that some concerns about AHAs have been brought on by the cavalier attitude to peels of aestheticians who have used strong peels on fragile skins in their treatments.
“Sensible scientific skincare does not torture skin into looking better. Using vitamin A and C products for iontophoresis and sonophoresis is much more effective than the peels, and also produce healthier beautiful skin.”
